Nails are used in countless applications, but not every nail is right for every job. Choosing the right nail for the job is essential. All nails have a head, shank and point that vary to match the intended purpose.
Nail heads come in many shapes. They can be flat to provide a large striking surface and solid holding power; textured to prevent slippage, ideal for framing; and conical to use when countersinking the nail.
Point types are also varied. Diamond points, a general-purpose point for wood, are inexpensive and easy to start. Needle points are the sharpest point. Blunt diamond points minimize wood splitting.
Shanks can be smooth, which are the most common; ringed to provide a strong hold in soft- and medium-density woods; or fluted with a vertical thread for use on cinder blocks and other masonry, just to name a few.
Nails are usually made of steel, but aluminum, brass, nickel, bronze, copper and stainless steel nails are also available, and each has its preferred use. For example, aluminum nails resist rust and are frequently used on aluminum siding or screening and stainless-steel nails won’t corrode, or streak or stain wood, so they are used with cedar and redwood.
Many nails have finishes—galvanized, blued, or cemented—to help prevent rust or increase holding power.
Sizing nails
Once you pick the right nail type, you’ll need to decide on the correct size. Generally, a nail should be at least 2½ times the thickness of the material. Nails sizes date back to England and a time when nails were named for what 100 of a given size cost. For example, if 100 nails cost 4 pence, they were called “4-penny” nails. Today, the letter “d” denotes “penny.”
A 2d nail is 1 inch long; a 3d is 1¼ inches. For each size larger add ¼-inch in length up to 10d nails, which are 2 inches long. There are exceptions: 12d nails are 3¼ inches long, 16d nails are 3½ inches long, and 20d nails are 4 inches long. From there, each 10d adds another 1/2 inch, so a 50d nail is 5½ inches long.
The most common nail for outdoor projects is a galvanized 16d common nail. The most common roofing nail is 1¼ inch galvanized. For heavy construction use a 16d nail and to install thin plywood sheeting, use an 8d nail.
Nail Selection
At least two-thirds of a nail should be driven into the base or thicker material. For example, a 1 X 3 nailed to a 4 X 4 beam needs an 8 penny, or 8d, nail. An 8d nail is 2½ inches long, so 1-3/4 inches will go through the 1 X 3 and into the beam.
Thickness Type of Nail Size
3/4” casing 6d
finishing 6d
5/8” finishing 6d - 8d
1/2” finishing 6d - 8d
3/8” finishing 4d - 6d
1/4” brads 3/4” - 1”
finishing 3d
Common Nail Types
Common medium to heavy construction work, • flat head
nails such as framing, nailing studs and • available in sizes 2d through 60d
joists, rough flooring and roof boards
Box nails light construction such as windows and • lighter and smaller in diameter than
doors, and cornice and trim on a house common nails
Finishing installing paneling and trim where you • small, rounded head
nails do not want the head to show • lighter than common nails
Casing when the nail head must be hidden, • small conical or cupped nails head
nails such as cabinets and interior trim • smaller in diameter than common nails,
thicker and heavier than finishing nails
Annular best for softwoods, such as plywood • when driven, the threads separate the wood
threaded or underlayment, also for studding, siding fibers, which then lock into the rings
nails • also called ring shank nails
Roofing installing shingles • much larger head than common nails
nails • usually galvanized
Drywall drywall installation • often ringed
nails • indented head
• sharp ridges along the nail shaft
Masonry for use with concrete and concrete block • round, square, or flute
nails (Should not be used where high strength
is required. For brick, stone, or reinforced
concrete use screws or lag bolts.)
Brad finishing, hanging molding or trim • very small diameter and head
• 1” or less in length